TRYFAN, GLYDER FACH AND GLYDER FAWN

Log book entry from Glip's personal log

26th July 1984        Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr

Leaders

Group 1 Tommy Boag, Robbie Mochrie

Group 2 Glip, Graham Bolster (Rivet).

Scouts   

Group 1 Adrian Simpson (Simmy), Roderick McCrorie, Douglas McCrorie (Jobby)

Group 2 James Gatherer (Peasant), Alistair Blair (Ally/Frodlet), Ross Gillespie (Rosco), Colin Beaton, Kenny Blair (Frodo)

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Weather

Sunny and hot with light wind.

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Report

For Tryfan, we split into two parties. Unfortunately the only report so far is for group 2.

1) Tommy Boag, Robbie Mochrie, Adrian Simpson, Roderick McCrorie, Douglas McCrorie.

Route: Youth Hostel – Llym Bochlwyd – Tryfan up south ridge and back the same way)

2) Glip, Graham Bolster, Frodo, Colin Beaton, Alistair Blair, Ross Gillespie, James Gatherer.

Route: North and south ridges of Tryfan, then Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr

After Glip had dropped off group one, group two set off from the car park at the east end of Llywn Ogwen and we were soon onto Tryfan’s north ridge. For the first time in Everest year, we had a rope with us, carried willingly by Rivet.

The scramble up was enjoyed by all, although Colin was quite slow and required encouragement from Rivet. Actually, he was enjoying himself fine despite lagging occasionally. His frame rucksack might have been his problem, in fact. Ally also had occasional problems when it came to tricky scrambling, although he set off at a ‘Deedie’ pace.

Peasant and Frodo were coping fine as expected, but Rosco was a revelation. He was a natural scrambler from the start and Glip was really impressed.

The mountain was quite busy and, at times, we were almost racing other groups the best ways up.  The summit was unbelievable. It was just our luck to arrive at the same time as about 50 Scouts from some international Scout camp or other, and so the place was mobbed. The Scouts in our group were not impressed and readily agreed to leave the summit for lunch.

We stopped about half way down just after we’d met the other group on their way up. During lunch, Rivet struggled to try and pick up the test match on his pocket radio. At one point, we heard a score of England 77 all out or similar. It was decided to tell Roderick when he arrived back from the summit that England had all been out for 100. When Roderick expressed disbelief, as we all thought he would, then we would admit we were joking and then tell him the real score which he would definitely not believe until he read of it later on. As it turned out, the last laugh was on us, since Rivet had picked up recorded highlights of past matches!

It was intensely warm during lunch since we were sheltered from a coolish west wind. This wind was a godsend today or else climbing would have been impossibly hot. As it was, conditions were perfect, although there was a definite risk of sunburn and heatstroke. However, we were guarding against that as much as possible with sun hats etc.

The two groups descended together to the saddle, whereupon group 1 sunbathed before descending and watched us as we set off up Glyder Fach. Since there was a large group struggling up the direct line up the ridge, Glip opted to turn to the left and sneak up to the ridge up one of the small gullies to the east of the ridge. Eventually, a suitable one was found which was just a bit too risky for the Scouts to climb unaided,  so we got out the rope and brought them up one at a time. Rosco, again, showed no fear, no problems and found it no bother whatsoever. A natural. Ally had one or two problems, but eventually managed it through perseverance and determination. Frodo and Rivet came up without the rope. It wasn’t that difficult really, but the fact that the rope was been used meant it was ‘magic’.

There was still some intensive scrambling left. Rosco, Peasant and Frodo were reveling in it.  Colin was also doing fine. Frodlet seemed uncertain about it all and so Rivet kept a close eye on him.

We didn’t hang around on Glyder Fach since our rock climb had used up an hour, so we carried on to Glyder Fawr with Glip scrambling along real knife-edge boulders must to the others amusement.

By Glyder Fawr, everyone was tired, but we still produced a fair speed down the path to the ‘puddle’ at GR 637584. Another motor bike race took place in fact, with leaps from boulders etc. Rosco, again, was impressive, but had to stop at the ‘puddle’ to treat a potential blister.

From here on, tired limbs made their presence felt with a vengeance and progress became quite slow down the Devils Kitchen. The party started to split up and so we regrouped at the hillock (GR643594) west of Llyn Idwal – the site of a really superb campsite. Glip was tempted to camp here, but the rest of the party were not at all keen about carting the gear up, so the idea was vetoed.

At this point, everyone started to lie around as if in shock and so Glip decided to let them come down with Rivet at their own pace while he went and collected the minibus.  Instead of descending to the youth hostel, he contoured round the hill a bit and was rewarded in finding an excellent spot for camping on the stream from Llyn Bochlwyd - just a bit along from the car park marked (GR for campsite 655601) on the map. Glip collected the minibus where group one was waiting patiently and returned to the youth hostel where group 2 was now waiting.

Since it was nearly 7 o’clock, we decided to camp at the spot Glip had found lower down. The only disadvantage was the lack of a pool, but everything else was ideal. The leaders camped on one side of the stream and the Scouts immediately camped on the other side.

Tent groups were:

 *Robbie, Tommy and Rivet

* Guy and Glip

* Colin, Adrian, Ally and Jobby (?)

* Frodo and Roderick (?)

* Peasant, Rosco and Colin (?)

Glip went along on two occasions to pick up Guy but he was not around. On the second occasion, he met the hikers who were a bit behind schedule and told them he would pick Guy up in an hour (much to Guy’s disgust – hunger pangs must have been desperate).

Guy had actually been up Carnedd Llewelyn today and had spent the rest of the day waiting for the hikers, who had been delayed by a late start and route-finding problems.

Back at camp, Guy had his meal while some of the Scouts played at rock climbing on a boulder handily placed. Peasant was most annoying since he free climbed everything Glip had intended belaying the Scouts on.

So ended a tremendous if tiring day – a classic to compare with days such as the Carn Mor Dearg ridge of 1979, and the Aonach Eagach ridge of 1980 etc.

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